![]() Note: If you see washer fluid gushing out of the detached hose when you switch on the windshield washer in your vehicle, but the fluid doesn’t flow when the nozzle is connected, it means the nozzles are clogged. Inspect entire hose and clear any blockage. If there is little or no flow, and the pump is working, then there is probably a blockage in the hose somewhere. You should see the fluid gushing out of the hose. To diagnose, first open the hood and pull the end of the hose out of a windshield washer nozzle, and then turn on the washer system. In rare cases, a dirty or pinched hose can be responsible for windscreen washer system malfunction in your car. Note: Keep the air-conditioning off in your vehicle when diagnosing a leaking hose, as condensation from the evaporator coil is also drained under the vehicle. However, the hoses can also have easily fallen off due to vibrations in the engine compartment. An exchange is also recommended if the elasticity of the rubber hose at the connection point to the nozzle decreases. If they are cracked, loose or leaking, they must be replaced. If the pump is working, but windscreen washer still does not work, you should check the hoses. If the multimeter reads very low or zero volts, it indicates a fault in the wiring or electrical connection – all electrical connectors and wires that feed power to the pump should be inspected for damage. The multimeter should read around 12 volts when you switch on the windshield washer, which indicates that the pump has failed in your vehicle and needs to be replaced. This can be done by removing the electrical connector from the pump and connecting it to a multimeter. If the fuse is not blown, check if the pump is getting any power. If you do not hear whirring sound of the pump when you turn on the windshield washer system in your car, you should first check the fuse for the pump. If there is no sound, then it means the pump is not working in your vehicle.
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