![]() "There isn't a need to use a fuse with the zip breakaway cable. " There is not once in our company history since we have released the zip cable that we have had a problem with the zip shorting and burning the trailer at all." He did not mention internal (inside the hull) wire failure. While he VERY expertly danced around the "Why" part of my message, he did say two important things: I did hear back from a Bryson Elliot, customer service rep at Equalizer Hitch, the manufacturer of the Zip BAW switch used on our Ollies. I must say Oliver owners are a cut above - most others just use the RV until they don't - BAS - what BAS. the brakes do not work as designed, the subsequent wreck causes havoc on something or someone - and a subsequent investigation finds the altered circuit. Were one to have an issue - your Oliver takes off on it's own. I would not recommend altering the circuit - for legal reasons alone. Who knows?Īs the BAS is a normally open - closed when activated - you would NOT know of a open fuse until it is to late - in most cases.Īs has been stated - Oliver must be counted on to understand the requirements, and engineer and build accordingly. My 16" tandem 3500 lb axle "farm" utility trailer does not have the break-away - however my former enclosed tandem axle did have the BAS. I don't really care to spend time searching. Perhaps it is a Canadian regulation? Call Oliver - I would believe they know. ![]() Perhaps it is a RIVA spec - here is a link: & State/Cite () I am making those statements based on Hull 218, they have definitely improved, but I won’t blindly accept something like the lack of fuse protection here, unless there is a documented reason for it, one that actually makes sense to me. Using grossly oversized inverter cables, which are costly and awkward to deal with. Not using minimal cable lengths, and instead leaving the many extra feet of it in an unsecured tangle, AKA “rats nest”. Like the inverter recall a couple years ago because they left off the mandated extra chassis ground (they never caught that very serious error until it was pointed out here in the forum and they were notified as a service request). Burying important wire splices in inaccessible places. If so, I will post their response here.Īs an ex aircraft tech, my personal view of the Oliver electrical systems is that they make mistakes or weird choices through lack of care in the production line, or from marginal design engineering. I am waiting to see if the BAS manufacturer replies with any useful info. Well, this has been very interesting, there are strong feelings on both sides. I think I'll wait for OTT to issue a safety recall if it's not correct as is. Interestingly, that's also what the battery could look like after the travel trailer broke free from the TV and crashed and burned - all because the emergency brakes didn't work due to a blown fuse that isn't supposed to be there. Electrical fires are not to be taken lightly, use Google to look at some pics of “automotive electrical fire images”. ![]() Your stereo shorts out, the fuse blows, the wire is safe, you replace the stereo and replace the fuse. Most people do not understand, a fuse protects the wire, not the device at the end of it. You still have to find and fix the problem, you just don’t have other burned stuff also, or, the worst case ever, have your beautiful Ollie burn to the pavement. And your emergency brakes don’t work in either case. If the same thing happens without a fuse, the wire overheats and literally melts somewhere. The fuse is there to protect the wire if it should short out to ground, such as if a mouse chews through the insulation and the conductor touches the aluminum frame, and the wire suffers a severe current overload. A fuse will not blow when the breakaway switch is activated when everything is working correctly, because the normal current flow is less than the fuse rating. ![]()
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